Global Instability?

Militants from Hamas, the organization that has governed (or occupied) the Gaza Strip since 2007 after defeating the more moderate Palestinian faction Fatah, shockingly broke through security into Israel and killed hundreds of innocent civilians at a music festival in Southern Israel over the weekend. Hamas also infiltrated 22 Israeli towns and army bases and took civilians and soldiers hostages, many...

Are Jerusalem Rhapsodies ‘Forced and Affected’?

Bayard Taylor (1825-1878), was an American poet, literary critic, translator, travel author, and diplomat. In The Lands of the Saracens (1863), he wrote of his impressions of the "holy land," specifically Jerusalem, which was then part of the Ottoman Empire: "I cannot assume emotions I do not feel and must describe Jerusalem as I found...

Israelis Flock to UAE

NPR, 2021: "Israelis are visiting Dubai in the tens of thousands. Where in the past, they could only arrive as undercover spies, competitive athletes or foreign passport holders, now they are loud and proud, running into the arms of their new Middle Eastern friend, the oil-rich United Arab Emirates." Related: Israeli Tourism Ministry Warns Against Discussing Sensitive...

‘Studied Empathy’ for Muslims, Christians, and Jews Is Essential to Understanding Middle East Conflict

In Jerusalem: The Biography, author Simon Sebag Montefiore asserts that the history of Jerusalem is "the story of the world" -- with so many illustrious characters in world history playing important roles there. At more than 600 pages, the book is a bit intimidating at first, but it is so well-written it doesn't bog down.  Montefiore, a historian,...

Holy Places in Jerusalem Still Inspire, Despite Long, Terrible Conflicts

Left: Lucia touching the slab believed to be the spot Jesus was laid on after he was removed from the cross. Center: Visitors praying at the altar. Right: Jim touching the spot where Jesus was believed to have been anointed for burial. Slide Show of Church of Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem As our Muslim guide led...

A Religious Theme Park? Via Dolorosa

On my first trip to Jerusalem, I was happy not to be jostling and elbowing among the masses on pilgrimage. Instead, I wanted to step back and observe the city's fascinating culture, sociology, and history from outside the perspective of my own sect. And yet my attempt at observational objectivity was punctured the moment I...

Israeli-American Guide Offers Insights Into Modern Israel

Lucia with our wonderful Israeli-American guide, Mitch Bertman. Sculpture at the Israel Museum, filled with ancient and modern art,  Jerusalem. Our second day's guide was Mitch Bertman, a Jewish American with an encyclopaedic knowledge of just about everything. His enthusiastic knowledge of all things ancient and modern in Israel was contageous. After five hours with...

Ultra-Orthodox Jewish Neighborhood Has Other-Worldly Feel

We hopped a taxi from the Old Quarter of Jerusalem to Mea Shearim, one of the oldest Jewish neighborhoods in the city, established in 1874. Shockingly, the neighborhood is claimed by the Palestinian Authority as part of a two-state solution, but good luck getting the most faithful of the Orthodox to either move out of...

Muslim Guide to Holiest Christian Sites Proved to be Good Samaritan to Shekel-less Tourists

Abdi, our Old City guide in Jerusalem. We met him at the corner of Via Dolorosa as we were trying to orient ourselves. We were initially afraid of being over-charged by a guide that didn't know much, but he quickly won our confidence and told us he had been guiding people most of his life, and...

‘Get Thee to a Nunnery!’ But It Didn’t Protect Me From Brazen Pickpocket

Recalling Shakespeare’s famous line in Hamlet, “Get thee to a nunnery!” we figured that a convent might be one of the safest places to stay in Jerusalem. In a January search for reasonably-priced, well-rated church house accommodations in Jerusalem for an April visit, the Franciscaines de Marie on Nablus Road near Damascus Gate in East Jerusalem, and...